Golf
Getaways
Delightful Dornoch
Sometimes, "off the beaten track" can
be the best holiday of all
by Ed Holbrook
Sometimes you have to get away from the
beaten track to find the real treasures. In Scotland, the "beaten
track" is the middle of the country &endash; the Glasgow/Edinburg
line which boasts prestige golf destinations like St. Andrews,
Muirfield, Gleneagles and Royal Troon.
Dornoch Castle- a charming hotel
For an unforgettable holiday, turn your attention
north...WAY north...to a coastal curve in the eastern throat of the
"head" of Scotland which juts north into the Atlantic Ocean. There,
just 51 miles north of Inverness, you'll find Dornoch. This quiet,
scenic village is the home of the third oldest golf course in
Scotland and is probably its most underrated, Royal Dornoch.
"This is the most fun I've ever had playing golf,"
said Tom Watson after a
round of golf at Royal Dornoch. Dornoch Firth
provides incredible scenery from every hole and several holes
literally skirt the beach. Par is 70, 35 out and 35 in. Front and
back have just one par 5 each, but the par 4s are some of the most
challenging you'll ever play.
Dornoth cathedral was consecrated in
1239
From the clubhouse, the course rambles northeast for
eight holes. At 9, you head back south for the stretch along the
beach. Seventeen shoots north again, with 18 turning back south to
the clubhouse. All of this means that one way or another, you'll be
playing into the wind for long stretches much of your day. The real
"meat" of the course is the last five holes. All par 4s, all but one
will have you talking to yourself.
As you walk from shot to shot, take a minute to
reflect on the history of this place. Royal Dornoch has been here
since 1616. Were it not for its relatively remote location, it would
surely enjoy an honored place in the British Open rotation of
courses. And here, you can do something you can't do in most other
golf locations around the world...you can have an early dinner and
still play 18 holes in the summertime, since the course is open from
7 am to 11 pm. It's so far north that the days are long and the
nights are short.
After walking Royal Dornoch, just keep walking and
enjoy the village of Dornoch. Dornoch Cathedral (Church of Scotland)
dominates the center of town and has been in service since 1239.
Small shops and bed and breakfasts surround the cathedral and its
ancient cemetery.
Facing the cathedral is Dornoch Castle, now a unique
and charming hotel. Hotel guests are welcome to gather in the cozy
bar in the evenings, where the bartender will gladly share tales of
the castle's colorful history. It has served time as a garrison,
courthouse, jail, school and private residence. Now, its guests are
invited to enjoy the lovely gardens that fill the rear courtyard. A
more peaceful place would be hard to find.
When planning your trip to Dornoch, be sure not to
hurry. Getting there and getting back can be a great part of the
lure. The direct route, through the mountains, will take you past one
of Scotland's best castles, Blair, and through the picturesque
village of Pitiochry. At Inverness, it would be a shame to breeze
through without visiting the Loch Ness and waving at "Nessie."
For your return, take the coastal route along
Scotland's north shore and plan to play a round at Nairn, a
championship links course that lists Old Tom Morris as one of its
designers. From Nairn, investigate a distillery or two on the Whiskey
Trail and play your next round at Cruden Bay, near Aberdeen. This
interesting layout features 18 holes of serious golf surrounding the
tricky 9 hole St. Olaf course. As usual, the scenery is the show as
you look across the bay to Slains Castle.
Whether you take the high road, the middle road or
the low road, Scotland offers a wealth of satisfying experiences
wherever you go. Be sure to watch the fields for a glimpse of the
long-haired highland cattle and enjoy the ride...off the beaten
path.
Ed Holbrook is a golf travel connoisseur in his spare time, as
well as by occupation. He is the South Florida Rep for SGH Golf Inc.,
providers of custom, worldwide golf travel packages. You can reach Ed
by calling 561-770-2222 or 800-785-7180.
edh@floridagolfing.com
